The Chopping Block Cooking & Wine Blog

Burnt by Choice: Allium Alchemy

Written by Trevor | Oct 24, 2023 3:30:00 PM

 

In all my culinary career, few techniques offer the depth and complexity that burnt allium provides. Burnt allium is the practice of charring allium family members like onions, garlic, and shallots to unlock their hidden flavors.

In the early days of my career, I had an unexpected encounter with a kitchen mishap. I found myself engaged in a multitude of kitchen tasks, and on one occasion, a batch of sliced onions suffered the unintended fate of my divided attention. What was supposed to be sweet caramelization turned into a burnt mess.

As I scrambled to fix my mistake and avoid a stern scolding from my chef, I realized that something (surprisingly) extraordinary had happened. However, I soon discovered that my delicious accident was not as original as I had thought. Seasoned chefs had been practicing the art of intentionally burning onions for generations, dubbing it "burnt allium."

I've found burnt allium to be one of the most intriguing ingredients in my kitchen. Let’s explore the intricacies of crafting leek top charred powder and a delectable burnt onion steak sauce. I will showcase both on a bone-in ribeye “cowboy” steak, an awesome canvas for the robust flavors that arise from taking an onion beyond its usual means.

Chefs worldwide have a well-kept secret in their kitchens— burnt leek powder. I've been charring green leek tops for years, grinding them into a powder. This stuff is gold. It's the base seasoning that adds smoky depth to meats and veggies, and it's the final touch that makes dishes stand out. I keep mine in an airtight shaker bottle. It lasts almost indefinitely.

 

Burnt Leek Tops Seasoning

Green leek tops (the part usually discarded)

 

1. Preheat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit and line a baking sheet with aluminum foil to prevent a mess.

2. Rinse the green leek tops thoroughly and pat them dry with a kitchen towel.

3. Cut the leek tops into small pieces. You want them to be relatively uniform in size for even cooking.

4. Spread the cut leek tops evenly on the foil-lined baking sheet. Make sure they are not overcrowded to allow for even charring.

5. Place the baking sheet in the preheated oven and roast the leek tops for 25-40 minutes. Keep an eye on them and remove from the oven once they have turned black or charred. The exact time may vary depending on your oven, so be vigilant.

6. Allow the roasted leek tops to cool completely. They will become brittle as they cool down.

7. Once cooled, grind the burnt leek tops into a fine powder. You can use a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle for this step.

8. Transfer the burnt leek tops powder to an airtight container for storage. It can be used as a unique and flavorful seasoning.

Because the leek powder is completely dehydrated, it will keep at room temperature. Just be sure to store it in an airtight container, preferably not in direct sunlight.

We now turn our attention to a savory masterpiece – a recipe for a flavorful burnt onion steak sauce.

Burnt Onion Steak Sauce Recipe

1 medium Vidalia onion, sliced

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup fresh apple cider

1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce

3 Tablespoons apple cider vinegar

3 Tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 Tablespoons soy sauce

2 Tablespoons Dijon or grainy mustard

2 Tablespoons tomato paste

2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 oz (1 stick) butter

 

1. In a medium sauté pan, place the sliced Vidalia onion and season with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. Heat the pan on high and start blackening the onion flesh, stirring occasionally to achieve even charring. You can add a bit of cooking oil (a few teaspoons) if necessary to prevent sticking.

This method can also be done in an oven-safe sauté pan on a grill outdoors to avoid smoking up your kitchen.

2. Once the onions are suitably charred, with some tender white parts remaining, add the minced garlic and reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir until the garlic becomes aromatic.

3. Add the following ingredients to the pan: chicken stock, fresh apple cider, Worcestershire sauce, apple cider vinegar, dark brown sugar, soy sauce, mustard, tomato paste, fresh thyme, fresh rosemary, kosher salt, and ground black pepper.

4. Allow the mixture to simmer over medium-low heat until bubbles form slowly across the surface of the liquid, about 3-5 minutes.

5. After simmering, transfer the hot mixture to a heavy-duty blender and blend on high until all solids have disappeared.

6. Add the butter to the blender in small pieces and blend on high until the sauce has lightened in color, and no butter is visible.

7. If desired, strain the sauce through a fine mesh strainer to remove any residual solid bits.

Store the sauce in an airtight container for up to 7 days. This recipe yields about 2 cups of delicious burnt onion steak sauce. Enjoy!

Now, let's talk about the real fun: tasting our creations. We started with a cowboy ribeye steak, the kind that begs for bold flavors. I generously seasoned the steak with salt, and then came the magic touch – coating it with our unique blackened leek ash. A quick sear and a gentle oven finish later, and we had a perfectly medium-rare steak that was something special. Sliced and plated, it got an extra boost from the rich burnt onion steak sauce.

Of course, we couldn't leave this star alone. Classic sidekicks joined the party: sautéed asparagus for a hit of freshness, and roasted red potatoes for that hearty, comforting vibe. But the unsung hero here was those charred leeks we saved from our leek ash adventure, adding a rustic, satisfying element to the meal.

This dinner was all about the thrill of trying new things in the kitchen. The journey from burnt leek tops to our sublime burnt onion steak sauce showed us how even kitchen accidents can turn into culinary treasures. As you embark on your own culinary adventures, remember to have fun, embrace the unexpected, and savor every bite. Cheers!

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