Rosè wine sales are down, and that’s fine by me. Don’t get me wrong: I love a rosè and a nosh at the end of a day, a rich Spanish rosado to wash down barbeque, an elegant rosè Champagne to enhance a fine steak… you get the idea.
But rosè’s sales slump may mean that this classic style will avoid the boom-and-bust fate of overplanting and plunging quality, experienced in wines like Merlot, Riesling and increasingly Pinot Noir and Malbec.
What is Rosè Wine?
Rosè (meaning ‘pink’ in French) is the lightest of red wines. Because nearly all grapes have clear pulp, the clear grape juice is tinted during winemaking thru contact with red grapes skins. For rich red, this may last 30 days. For rosè, some suggest the perfect skin contact is 11 minutes.
Rosè is produced throughout the world, often as a by-product of red wine production. The primary grape is Garnacha (also called Grenache) - known for rich, savory wines - but recipes include any red grape allowed by law and market demand. Labelling is likewise diverse, based on law and customer appeal.
"A rose by any other name would smell as sweet."
~Act II, Scene ii, ROMEO AND JULIET (William Shakespeare)
Just add an accent to Juliet’s famous statement of inclusivity to apply it to rosè. Or to borrow from author Gertrude Stein, “A rosè is a rosè is a rosè.” While labels are vague in terms of specific flavor, here are terms to look for:
Blanc de Noirs: Directly translated ‘white from blacks’, this French term refers to the whisking of red skins away from juice immédiatement, leaving little to no color. Even though most Champagne is produced from red grapes, the term came to general use in California sparkling wine production. Grapes are usually Pinots Noir and Meunier as in Champagne, but aren’t governed by law in the U.S. Serve California Blanc de Noirs with lighter dishes, such as cheese and cured meats.
Champagne Rosè: By most accounts, France’s Champagne region produces the most statuesque rosés. Permitted grapes are Pinots Noir and Meunier, sometimes with a splash of Chardonnay. The Chopping Block offers:
Cuvee Rosé Brut "Grand Cru", Champagne R.H. Coutier: Sumptuous, with power and finesse. For five generations, the Coutier family has farmed Champagne's finest vineyards, with organic farming beginning in 2019. Dry, complex and classy, this is a meal-time bubbly for the richest vegetables, seafood and poultry, as well as red meats. $72.00
Rosado/ Rosato: Spain and Italy’s traditional terms for rosè, with Garnacha the primary grape in Spain, Sangiovese in Italy. TCB offers this delish Spanish bubbly:
Cava "Pink", Parés Baltà: Dry, but with rich berry flavor and ample finish. This family-owned winery has devoted three generations to organic and biodynamic farming. Serve on its own or with the richest tapas - even light red meats - breakfast, lunch and dinner. $34.00
Rosè: The general term for pink-hued wine, used especially in France, Portugal and the U.S. TCB’s selection is:
Rosé, Triennes: From the epicenter of dry rosé - France’s Provence region - Triennes ranks among the world's finest and favorite rosés. Easy complexity paired with elegance makes a classic apèritif and complement lighter cuisine. $26.00
White Zinfandel (or Merlot, Sangiovese …): America’s contribution, this cotton-candy-sweet style began as an accident in 1972, grew to gargantuan sales and, until recently, crushed America’s understanding of traditional, drier styles. But with quick-to-market production, White Zin was California’s lifesaver, injecting capital into a wine industry hemorrhaging the costs of fine wine production, such as barrel ageing. Other U.S. terms include pink and blush. Serve these sweeter styles - possibly in a stadium cup packed with ice - with smoked or spicy dishes, like BBQ.
Frosè: Another U.S. contribution, reportedly created by NYC’s Bar Primi in 2016, this rosè slushie is the perfect complement to a warm day. Here is TCB’s recipe.
On Friday August 23 at 6:30 pm, join me to discover the world of rosè during Rosè all Day: Pink Wine, So Fine. We’ll taste four primary styles – including Champagne Rosè – and a delish Frosè. Noshes include cheeses, cured meat and a chocolate-dipped strawberry. For more information and to register, visit here.
