The Chopping Block Cooking & Wine Blog

Rediscovering Fennel Tops

Written by Trevor | Aug 15, 2024 3:30:00 PM

If you’ve been following my culinary adventures, you might remember that time I burnt my onions (on purpose, of course!) and made a leek ash, or the deep dive we took into the world of fermentation with an awesome watermelon rind kimchi. Well, I’m back at it again, this time with some fennel tops that were just too good to toss.

 

Fennel fronds and stalks usually end up in the compost, or sometimes get tossed into stocks. But honestly, that’s not my favorite use for them. The fronds add a lot of chlorophyll, which can give your stock a greenish tinge… not exactly the most appetizing color. So, instead of relegating them to the stockpot or compost bin, I decided to bring these fennel tops into the kitchen spotlight with two creations: a fennel frond ash (a little nod to our onion-burning escapades) and a fermented fennel stalk Piccalilli inspired by the kimchi experiments we enjoyed just a few months back. 

For a bit more background on fennel and some additional ideas, be sure to check out Chef Lisa’s blog, where she dives deep into this versatile vegetable. But for now, let’s jump into these two recipes and give those fennel tops the love they deserve! 

Fennel Frond Ash

Cooking with ash might sound a bit unconventional, but it’s a technique that can add a surprising depth of flavor to your dishes. The process of turning herbs, vegetables, or even bread into ash caramelizes their natural sugars, resulting in a seasoning that’s slightly bitter, smoky, and rich in umami. When used sparingly, ash can bring a new dimension to your food that balances well with sweeter or richer ingredients. I very much enjoy using it as a seasoning for grilled meats. 

Quick Method for Making Fennel Frond Ash 

  1. Set your oven to 200°F (90°C).
  2. Wash the fennel fronds thoroughly and pat them dry. Spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
  3. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake the fronds for 1-2 hours, or until they are completely dry and brittle.
  4. Allow the dried fronds to cool, then crumble them into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. Store in an airtight container until ready to use. 

 

Fermented Fennel Stalk Piccalilli

It’s no mystery that I love fermentation in all its forms. My free time is often spent making pickles, garums, and sourdough bread, so when I found myself with a bunch of fennel stalks, fermenting them into something delicious felt like the natural choice.

To create a tangy and flavorful fennel stalk Piccalilli, I started by grating the fennel stalks and mixing them with finely minced onion and garlic. I added a blend of ground coriander, chili flakes, whole mustard seeds, bay leaf, kaffir lime leaf, and fresh thyme, then mixed everything with salt at 3% of the total weight. After packing the mixture into a slightly larger container, I pressed plastic wrap onto the surface to keep the contents submerged and sealed it with a lid. The container was left in a dark corner at room temperature for 9 days, allowing the ingredients to ferment and develop a bright, effervescent, and slightly funky flavor. The resulting Piccalilli pairs beautifully with grilled meats but also works well as a topping for sandwiches or as a tangy side for roasted vegetables. 

Fennel Stalk Piccalilli 

Scroll down for a printable version of this recipe

Yield: Approx. 1 pint

Prep Time: 20 min

Fermentation Time: 7-9 days

 

8 oz fennel stalks, grated

8 oz yellow onion, grated

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1.5 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 Tablespoon ground coriander

2 teaspoons chili flakes

3 sprigs thyme, tied into a bundle with twine

1 fresh bay leaf

1 fresh kaffir lime leaf

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

 

  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the grated fennel stalks, grated yellow onion, minced garlic, mustard seeds, ground coriander, chili flakes, and kosher salt. 
  1. Transfer the mixture to a glass or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Once the mixture is in the vessel, add the thyme bundle, bay leaf, and kaffir lime leaf. 
  1. Seal the container and let the mixture ferment at room temperature for 7-9 days, depending on your taste preference. 
  1. After fermenting, the Piccalilli will be ready to enjoy as a tangy accompaniment to grilled meats, sandwiches, or as a side to roasted vegetables. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.

 I like using fennel ash for dusting meat before cooking, as it adds a subtle smokiness and depth of flavor. For this dish, I seasoned a tenderloin with salt, pepper, and fennel ash, then served it alongside a portion of the fennel stalk Piccalilli and a charred habanero sauce for a bold plate.

Fennel also goes great with seafood. Don't miss these upcoming classes with dishes featuring fennel. 

 

Yield: 1 pint
Author: Trevor Olsen

Fennel Stalk Piccalilli Recipe

Prep time: 20 MinInactive time: 168 HourTotal time: 168 H & 20 M

Ingredients

  • 8 oz fennel stalks, grated
  • 8 oz yellow onion, grated
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1.5 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1 tbsp ground coriander
  • 2 tsp chili flakes
  • 3 sprigs thyme, tied into a bundle with twine
  • 1 fresh bay leaf
  • 1 fresh kaffir lime leaf
  • 1 tbsp kosher salt

Instructions

  1. In a mixing bowl, combine the grated fennel stalks, grated yellow onion, minced garlic, mustard seeds, ground coriander, chili flakes, and kosher salt.
  2. Transfer the mixture to a glass or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Once the mixture is in the vessel, add the thyme bundle, bay leaf, and kaffir lime leaf.
  3. Seal the container and let the mixture ferment at room temperature for 7-9 days, depending on your taste preference.
  4. After fermenting, the Piccalilli will be ready to enjoy as a tangy accompaniment to grilled meats, sandwiches, or as a side to roasted vegetables. Store any leftovers in the refrigerator.