There were all of three sommeliers in Chicago back in the 1980’s, but we were a feisty bunch and took on the challenge of getting our customers to enjoy dry Rosè with the gusto of their European counterparts. It took us 20 years. Then in the 1990’s, joined by a legion of new somms, we turned our attention to Riesling. If the pattern holds true, I figure Riesling is due for its own Renaissance because, after all, there’s a Riesling for everything.
There’s a Riesling for Dinner (and Breakfast and Lunch)
Do you enjoy sushi? Honey-baked ham? What about lobster, shrimp, or scallops? Delicately sweet foods and sweeter sauces are enhanced by dry or delicately sweet Rieslings. (See Schloss Gobelsburg below.) When you ramp up the heat with three-alarm cuisines like barbeque or Szechuan, your palate will thank you for a cooling douse of full-on sweet Riesling. (See Huff below.)
Next, imagine any dish in any restaurant that you’ve ever ordered that’s garnished with a lemon, including fried foods, salads, cured meats, seafood… Riesling’s acidity behaves like a squeeze of lemon, adding a final layer of refreshment. This acidity also stands in for rosé’s tannin, to pair with lighter or chilled meats.
For classic pairings, turn to Riesling's homelands including bratwurst or pork with apples from Germany; Austria’s Brettljause – a noshing board with cheeses, cured meats, veggies and pickles; fondue and choucroute from France.
There’s a Riesling for In Between
Riesling is a supreme porch-pounder. Whether served from stemware or a stadium mug packed with ice, Riesling’s low alcohol makes it an all-day alternative to Rosè. Look to better groceries for well-made, inexpensive styles.
How are Riesling and Rosè Different?
Rosè (roh-ZAY) is a broad category, indicating the lightest of red wine. They may be produced of any red grape or blend of grapes. Flavors lean towards red berries and range from dry to sweet. Alcohol ranges from light (10%) to high (14% and up). Wines might be labelled Rosè (France and international), Rosado (Spain) or Rosato (Italy) pink, blush, or White + a grape name (i.e. White Zinfandel).
Riesling (REE-sling) is a grape. Flavors lean towards apples and stone fruit and range from dry to sweet. Alcohol is generally low (8% to 12%). Because Riesling is so prized, labels generally bear its name.
Here’s the Glitch
Like Rosè, there’s little way to tell from the label what the flavors are inside the bottle other than - in general - rosè has berry flavors; Riesling has green apple or stone fruit flavors. Here are basic styles to check with your wine merchant or ask for at The Chopping Block.
Riesling Around the World
Germany is the most successful at producing and communication 5 levels of sweetness. The driest wines are labelled ‘Kabinett’, as sweet as a barely ripe nectarine. ‘Spatlese’ indicates fully ripened flavors like a juicy-sweet peach. Increasing in sweetness are Auslese, Beerenauslese and – honey of the Gods - Trockenbeerenauslese. At TCB, we offer:
Riesling Spatlese, Huff, 2020, RHEINHESSEN, GERMANY, $28.00: A classic Riesling, “late picked” for juicy peach flavor, mineral accents and refreshing tartness for a sweeter cocktail and complement to foods prepared with fruit, spice and/ or smoke. Delicious with all cheese, especially blue!
Austria fully ferments her wines, leaving little residual sugar or sweetness. TCB offers:
Riesling, Schloss Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger", 2021, KAMPTAL, AUSTRIA, $27.00: Dry but lush with nectarine flavor intertwined with mineral complexity and refreshing finish, this Austrian beauty satisfies a wide range of cuisine, including most appetizers, spice cuisine, fried dishes, seafood (including sushi), veggies and poultry.
In the U.S., Riesling is produced from sea to shining sea for a broad range of styles. In Chicagoland, we’re lucky to be a short drive from the region that is increasingly on many wine pundits’ radar: Michigan.
Riesling “Wren Song”, Wyncroft 2022, LAKE KICHIGAN SHORE, MI, USA, $38: Bone-dry and statuesque, "Wren Song" offers the lean fruit, bracing acidity and mineral complexity of classic Old World Rieslings. Winemaker James Lester grows 4 clones in his mineral-rich vineyard for complexity and age-ability. Add this bright acidity to seafood and rich dishes such as fondue.
Our wine list is curated to offer you a wide variety of affordable and delicious wines fit for every food and occasion. Stop in our store soon to check it out!
